2025 Catalog

LEATHER

Splits: The bottom layers of the hide that have been split off from the top layer, then pigmented. The result looks like suede, but isn’t as soft. Splits are generally stiffer, but less durable than leather made from the Top Grain layer of the hide. Skiving: Similar to splitting, skiving is reducing the weight of the leather. Most often, thinning leather by hand is referred to as skiving, while splitting is mostly done with a machine. Skiving is also generally done on a smaller scale - you’ll skive a project but you’ll split a full hide or side. Projects are often skived to shape or even out leather. The two can be considered as interchangeable terms, but each comes with its own connotation. Side (Leather): Half of a full cowhide, cut right up the backbone. In general, sides run about 18 to 25 square feet of total surface area. Snuffed: Leather that has had the grain surface abraded with brushes, emery wheel or sandpaper. It is done to remove defective grain or for sueding the surface of leather. Suede: Split leather that has been buffed and brushed to create a fuzzy, velvet like surface feel. Tooling : Tooling is the art of carving patterns in leather using stamps and other tools. Tooling is typically done on vegetable tanned leather and can take a lot of practice. Top Coat: A transparent, protective coating applied to the leather surface. May also impart luster to the surface. Top Grain: Leather whose top (outermost) layers have been left intact, in contrast to split leather. This leather is more durable than split leather. Two-Tone (tone-on-tone): An effect created by applying layers of similar or contrasting dyes to a piece of leather in order to create a mottled or aged appearance. Antiqued and Sauvaged leathers are examples of two tone leather. Upholstery Leather: Leather (usually chrome tanned) created from a whole hide and intended for use in furniture, automobiles, airplanes, etc. Because of the versatility of this leather, it can be used in many, many applications other than upholstery purposes such as handbags, etc. Often embossed or printed and commonly found in lighter weights. Weight: A term which describes the heaviness or thickness of leather. The weight of leather is measured in ounces per square foot. The standard term for the “thickness” of leather is ounces, but the thickness can be referred to in millimeters as well.

Pigmented Leather: Leather that is has been coated or finished with a flat or solid pigment coating instead of the usual dye finish. Leather is usually pigmented for consistency of color and texture. Pigment may be used to cover imperfections and natural blemishes, and also for added protection and durability. Sometimes called “painted” leather. Plating: The process of pressing leather under a heated metal plate under high pressure. Often used to mask imperfections, or to create an embossed printed leather. Pull-up: The visual effect achieved when leather that has been treated with oils, waxes, and dyes is creased, pulled, or stretched. Those stretched or creased areas will have a lighter look/color. Considered a mark of high quality. Reconstituted or Bonded Leather: Bonded leather, also called reconstituted leather, composition leather or blended leather, is a term used for a manufactured upholstery material which contains animal hide. It is made as a layered structure of a fiber or paper backer covered with a layer of shredded leather fibers mixed with natural rubber or a polyurethane binder that is embossed with a leather-like texture. Retan: During retanning, the leather is treated with (re) tanning agents, oils, and other chemicals to achieve desired properties such as fullness and softness, durability, grain tightness and resistance to water and other elements. Both Chrome and Vegetable Tanned leathers can be retanned. Saddle Skirting: Full-thickness, vegetable tanned leather normally indicated by a two-ounce variance such as 12-14oz or 13-15oz. Skirting leathers are typically “unleveled” hides so the thickness range indicated will be the THINNEST the side will be. This type of leather is used in saddle construction. Semi-Aniline: Also called aniline-plus or protected aniline. Leather that is aniline dyed and coated with matching pigment and/or topical finishes to even out the color and add protection. Shearling: Natural lamb/sheep pelts with the leather side often dyed and the hair typically cropped (sheared) to some uniform length. Shell Cordovan: Shell cordovan, cordovan, or cordwain is a type of tanned fibrous connective tissue commonly used in high-end shoemaking. Cordovan is an equine material made from the fibrous flat connective tissue (or shell) beneath the hide on the rump of the horse. Splitting: The process of decreasing the thickness or weight of the leather generally with a large machine.

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