Lacing and Stitching Visual Guide

LACING & STITCHING VISUAL GUIDE

THIS GUIDE SHOWS HOW TO... Thread a Lacing Needle, Whip Lace, Double Loop Lace, Buck Lace, Splice Lace, Saddle Stitch & Prep Needles!

Lacing Leather Preparation

Lacing Tools List

1

Use Leather Glue/Cement or Basting Tape (1) to adhere between each layer of your project that you are stitching together. Our Basting Tape (1) selection comes in 4 width options, 1/8”, 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”.

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1

9

3

2

6

4

Put your leather over your Polyboard (6) where you will be hammering. Place the points of the Stitching Chisels (5) along your stitching line. Hold firmly and hammer with a Mallet (9) to puncture. Evenly make holes using the different Chisel (5) sizes until the end of your stitch guide line.

Adjust the Wing Dividers (4) to desired width. With one of the prongs guiding along the edge of your project and the other on the leather press in your stitch line.

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3

2

5

8

1. 1/8” Basting Tape: It keeps your leather together for a short time while stitching! (Item #501-20305) 2. Lace: Can be made from deer, calf, kangaroo, or even plastic. (Item #28-29) 3. 2 Prong Needle: Large and durable enough for lacing. (Item #011-119000) 4. Wing Divider: For marking your seam allowance even, especially rounded corners. (Item #294-360700) 5. Lacing Chisels: To keep your holes straight and evenly spaced. (Item #011-26332) 6. Polyboard: To put under leather while punching to keep tools sharp. (Item #309-346402) 7. Rubber Disks: Helps your fingers grip the needle as you pull through leather. (Item #100-62420) 8. Stitching Pony: Holds onto your leather projects while you’re stitching or lacing. (Item #011-313200) 9. Mallet: Just like a hammer, but better for your chisels! (Item #36-15001) 10. Fid: Used for tightening or loosening knots or stippling. The tip is blunt and great for stretching and enlarging holes to make your lacing chores much easier. (Item #88-477)

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5

Prep your 2 Prong Needles (3) . See Page 3 for more detail.

Set up your project on the Stitching Pony(8) .

1

2

Thread a Lacing Needle

Cement Splicing When you lace a project it is generally recommended that you use no more than 2 yards of lace at a time. This is because pulling the lace through all those holes wears the lace and may weaken it. Not to mention how time consuming it is to pull all the lace you might need to complete a project through each hole. Working with a small amount of lace leaves your lace strong and allows you to lace much faster. You will have to splice in a new length of lace, maybe even several times. Each Style of lacing requires a different amount. The thickness of your project also needs to be considered when determining the amount you need.. Cement splicing is commonly used by leather crafters and manufacturers of lace as well. Often on a spool of lace a piece will already be spliced to fill the roll length.

Skive the end of the flesh side of the lace. Then flip and cut the skived end to a point. 1

Spring the end of the needle open. 2

This is a good option if you want to do a cool multi-colored edge on a project.

1

Skive the end of the old lace on the top side. Skive the end of the new lace on the bottom side. Carefully apply cement to the skived edges.

Top Side of Lace

Top Side of Lace

Insert the lace into the needle. Flesh side on prongs. 3

Old Lace

Old Lace

New Lace

New Lace

Cement Cement

2

Allow cement to dry until tacky. Adhere skived ends together. Continue lacing around your project with new lace. Old Lace

4

Close the needle on the lace and squeeze gently with a pair of pliers so the prongs pierce the lace in place.

Old Lace

New Lace

New Lace

Keeping your glue to a minimum during construction will make splicing and finishing your project easier. HELPFUL HINT

3

4

Whip Stitch

Buck Stitch 1

Estimated Lace Amount: 3x the size of project. See page 4 for more info.

Estimated Lace Amount: 4x the size of project. See page 4 for more info.

1

2

2

Thread the needle then make a slit on the opposite end.

Begin lacing in-between the two layers. Bring the needle to the front and through next hole over. Thread it through the slit in the second hole.

Pull stitch up tight to lock the lace. Continue weaving in and out of the slits, pulling stitches tight as you go.

Slice a slit at the end of the lace and start through the slit. Push needle through the next slit from the back, through the slit in the end of the lace and out the opposite slit in front.

BEGINNING STITCH

BEGINNING STITCH

FLESH SIDE

GRAIN SIDE

FLESH SIDE

GRAIN SIDE

PIERCED END OF LACE

PIERCED END OF LACE

3

LOOSE LOOP

BEGINNING STITCH

LOOSE LOOP

Pull stitch up tight. Continue lacing in a spiral, tightening the lace as you go. BEGINNING STITCH LOOSE LOOP

BEGINNING STITCH

LOOSE LOOP

BEGINNING STITCH

LOOSE LOOP

BEGINNING STITCH

BEGINNING STITCH

LOOSE LOOP

GRAIN SIDE Doing this keeps your stitch/lace line straight and tidy. FLESH SIDE HELPFUL HINT Always Stitch/Lace from the front side of your project. GRAIN SIDE FLESH SIDE

BEGINNING STITCH

LOOSE LOOP

3

BEGINNING STITCH

BEGINNING STITCH

LOOSE LOOP

BEGINNING STITCH Lace to the last slit and leave a loose loop in the second to last slit. LOOSE LOOP BEGINNING STITCH

BEGINNING STITCH

BEGINNING STITCH

BEGINNING STITCH

TUCK THIS END

PIERCED END OF LACE

BEGINNING STITCH

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5

BEGINNING STITCH

Lace around leaving a loose loop in the next to last hole. There will be one unlaced hole between the first and last stitch. PIERCED END OF LACE

Spread the layers and lace through the last hole, up between the leathers and through the 1st loop.

TUCK THIS END

BEGINNING STITCH

TUCK THIS END

4

LOOSE LOOP

LOOSE LOOP

BEGINNING STITCH

LOOSE LOOP Push needle through the last slit. Spread the leathers; push needle back through next to the last slit, bringing needle up between the leathers. BEGINNING STITCH

LOOSE LOOP

BEGINNING STITCH

LOOSE LOOP

FLESH SIDE

TUCK THIS END

BEGINNING STITCH BEGINNING STITCH GRAIN SIDE

LOOSE LOOP

PIERCED END OF LACE

BEGINNING STITCH

BEGINNING STITCH

BEGINNING STITCH

BEGINNING STITCH

LOOSE LOOP

BEGINNING STITCH

5

BEGINNING STITCH

TUCK THIS END Pull the loose loop tight and continue pulling all the slack out of the lace. Cut off the end and tuck in between the leathers.

6

Pull the first loop tight over the end of the lace. Take out the slack. Cut off the end and very softly tap all lacing flat with a flat smooth mallet.

TH

TUCK THIS END

Tap with a smooth mallet.

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6

HOLD END OF LACE DOWN WITH FINGER

BIGHT (CROSS)

/

WITH FINGER

/

END LACE C RELEA

Double Loop Lacing 1 Beginning on the front side of the project, pull the needle through the 1st slit. Leave a short tail end. Go on to the next slit.

Double Loop Lacing (Continued)

Estimated Lace Amount: 9x the size of project. See page 4 for more info.

HOLD END OF LACE DOWN WITH FINGER

HOLD END OF LACE DOWN WITH FINGER

BIGHT (CROSS)

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2

When lacing a corner, stitch through the three corner slits twice each. Be sure to go through each bight on all corner stitches. It can help to punch a hole that corresponds to the lace thickness you are using in each corner hole. END OF LACE CAN BE RELEASED

Pull the stitch tight; lacing over the end you left free. This forms a cross or “bight”.

END OF LACE CAN BE RELEASED

END OF LACE CAN BE RELEASED

HOLD END OF LACE DOWN WITH FINGER

HOLD END OF LACE DOWN WITH FINGER

HOLD END OF LACE DOWN WITH FINGER

BIGHT (CROSS)

HOLD END OF LACE DOWN WITH FINGER

BIGHT (CROSS)

/

LACE THROUGH THREE CORNER SLITS TWICE EACH LACE THROUGH THREE CORNER SLITS TWICE EACH

/

/

END OF LACE CAN BE RELEASED

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From back side pull the end of the lace out of the slit.

Continue lacing to starting point. Use a modeling stylus to pull end of lace free of stitches.

HOLD END OF LACE DOWN WITH FINGER

3

END OF LACE CAN BE RELEASED

HOLD END OF LACE DOWN WITH FINGER

BIGHT (CROSS)

Push the needle under the cross or “bight”. Hold the end of the lace down on the opposite side. Pull the stitch under the bight snug but not tight. Lace through the next slit.

HOLD END OF LACE DOWN WITH FINGER

MAINTAIN LOOP HOLD END OF LACE DOWN WITH FINGER

BIGHT (CROSS)

HOLD END OF LACE DOWN WITH FINGER

LACE THROUGH THREE CORNER SLITS TWICE EACH

HOLD END OF LACE DOWN WITH FINGER

HOLD END OF LACE DOWN WITH FINGER

LOOP

END OF LACE CAN BE RELEASED HOLD END OF LACE DOWN WITH FINGER

LACE THROUGH THREE CORNER SLITS TWICE EACH LOOP

END OF LACE CAN BE RELEASED

MAINTAIN LOOP

/

/

LACE THROUGH THREE CORNER SLITS TWICE EACH

LACE THROUGH THREE CORNER SLITS TWICE EACH

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TUCK END BETWEEN LEATHERS Lace through the next hole. Now that you laced a few slits. The end of the lace can now be released as it is now locked in place.

Follow steps 1 - 3 making a cross or bight. Once again go under the bight and pull the stitch snug.

From front side, pull end of lace out of the loop. Push stylus down between the leathers and hook it over the end of the lace.

END OF LACE CAN BE RELEASED

TUCK END BETWEEN LEATHERS

MAINTAIN LOOP

MAINTAIN LOOP

LOOP

LOOP

TUCK END BETWEEN LEATHERS END OF LACE CA BE R LEASED

LOOP

TUCK END BETWEEN LEATHERS

LOOP

MAINTAIN LOOP

LOOP LACE THROUGH THREE CORNER SLITS TWICE EACH

LOOP

LACE THROUGH THREE CORNER SLITS TWICE EACH

LOOP

LACE THROUGH THREE CORNER SLITS TWICE EACH

MAINTAIN LOOP

LOOP

7 LACE THROUGH THREE CORNER SLITS TWICE EACH

8

Double Loop Lacing (Continued)

Double Loop Lacing (Continued)

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14 Pull any slack out of the first loop and adjust lacing with fingers to make all your stitches appear equal. Pull the end of the lacing down tight. Make sure all stitches appear even and equally spaced.

Pull end of lace out of slit and up between leathers. Two empty slits should appear on the front side: one on the back. Cut off the end of the lace you have pulled out and tuck the end of the lace between the leathers. Lace through the next slit. LOOP

MAINTAIN LOOP

TUCK END BETWEEN LEATHERS

MAINTAIN LOOP

LOOP

LOOP

TUCK END BETWEEN LEATHERS

TUCK END BETWEEN LEATHERS

LOOP

LOOP

LOOP

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Push needle through the last slit as shown. Bring it up between the leathers and out between the lacing. Carefully cut off the end of this lacing. You can tap softly with a flat mallet to set the lace. An alternative is to roll the lace flat with a smooth wooden dowel. TUCK END BETWEEN LEATHERS

So easy a stupid cat can do it!

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Pull stitch tight and lace up through loop from the back side. All slits on the back should be filled.

Lace under bight. Don’t pull this stitch tight.

LOOP

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Carefully crossover as shown and push needle down through the loop. Pull needle through. Push laced edges together to adjust starting loop for easier completion.

Scan Here to learn more about Double Loop Lacing. WANT MORE?

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Hand Stitching Leather Preparation 1 Use Leather Glue/Cement or Basting tape (1) to adhere between each layer of your project that you are stitching together.

Stitching Tools List

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2

Quick Snips arn’t a required tool, but it sure does help. Especially with Basting Tape. HELPFUL HINT

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6

There are two methods of making holes. The first is the standard way for thinner leather or minimal layers. The other is for heavier applications or thicker leather. STANDARD HEAVY

1

2 .b

2 .a

If UsingWing Dividers.

If Using A Groover.

Slide the guide on the Groover (12) to desired width and lock in place. Run the groover down your leather. A small amount of the leather will be cut out to leave a groove in your project for your stitch to sit in.

Adjust the Wing Dividers (4) to desired width. With one of the prongs off the edge and the other on the leather press in your stitch line.

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3

3 .b

3 .a

8

If Using Chisels.

If Using An Awl.

Standard Stitching (SS) - This works well for thiner leather or minimal layers. (Example: Wallets, Totes, Key Chains, etc.) Heavy Stitching (HS) - This is for thicker leather or multipliable layers. (Example: Saddles, Shoes, Holsters, etc.)

Put your leather over your Polyboard (6) where you will be hammering. Place the points of the Lacing Chisel (5)

On a Over-stitcher (11) pick the stitch distance and change your wheel. Push the wheel along your stitching line to mark your stitch holes. Using an Awl (10) , press it through the marks to make

along your stitching line. Hold firmly and hammer with a Mallet (9) to puncture. Evenly make holes using the different Chisel (5) sizes until the end of your stitch guide line.

1. 1/8” Basting Tape (SS): It keeps your leather together for a short time while stitching! (Item #501-20305) 2. Waxed Thread (SS): Made of Nylon and wax, it can be melted to secure your stitch. (Item #363-122003) 3. Harness Needles (SS): Large and durable enough for hand stitching. (Item #130-119710) 4. Wing Divider (SS): Useful for marking your edges evenly, especially rounded corners. (Item #294-360700) 5. Stitching Chisels (SS): Keep your holes straight and evenly spaced. (Item #378-96089) 6. Polyboard (SS): To put under your leather to keep your tools sharp. (Item #309-346402) 7. Rubber Disks (SS): Helps your fingers better grip the needle as you pull through leather. (Item #100-62420) 8. Stitching Pony (SS): Holds your leather projects still while you’re stitching or lacing. (Item #011-313200) 9. Mallet (SS): Just like a hammer, but better for your chisels! (Item #36-15001) 10. Awl (HS): Great for punching through those thicker leathers or around corners. (Item #88-478) 11. Overstitcher (HS): This nifty tool comes with wheels for marking different stitch lengths. (Item # 011-809101) 12. Groover (HS): This tool grooves a line into your leather for stitches to sit into your leather for a smoother look. (Item #011-807400) 13. Thread Burner (SS): This tool melts the ends of waxed thread.

the stitch hole. Make sure each hole goes all the

way through each layer as straight as possible.

4

Prep your Harness Needles(3) . See Page 13.

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1 Saddle Stitch

Thread a Harness/Glovers Needle

Estimated Lace Amount: 3x the size of project.

2

Carefully pull the thread through the eye hole at the end of the needle about an inch past the point of the needle. 1

Push a needle through the start hole and pull until an equal amount of thread is on each side of the leather.

Push needle A through second hole from back Side 1. On side 2 push

needle B through same hole. Try not to pierce any thread already in the hole.

Needle A

A

1

SIDE 1 Needle A

A

1

SIDE 1

END

SIDE 2

END

B

SIDE 2

2

END

B Needle A

2

Needle B

SIDE 1

Needle B

3

SIDE 2

Grab both ends and pull until the thread is snug. Use equal tension with both hands. Continue stitching around project to the starting hole. Make sure Side 1 needle always goes in the next hole first. This keeps the stitch line even and consistent. B 1 2 B 1 2 Needle B

END

END

Needle A

A

END

A

1

END

1

1

A

SIDE 1

B

2

B

2

3

SIDE 2

Pierce the thread and pull it down the needle back towards the eye.

Needle B The thread should be snug at the eye of the needle. That way the thread doesn’t fall off while you s w. 2 The thread should be interlaced with itself when you pierce it. 1 2 Needle B END

B

2

Needle A DETAIL VIEW

A

A

1

1

A

Needle B

Needle A SIDE 1

A

1

1

B

SIDE 1

B

SIDE 2

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END

SIDE 2

B

B DETAIL VIEW

DETAIL VIEW

A Once you laced to the starting hole do the same stitching motions in the opposite direction about 3 or 4 holes over the existing stitch to lock in your stitch. Cut and burn your thread. You can very lightly hammer the stitching to even out the stitches. 2 2 2 2

B

A

A

END

1

2 END

B

1

END

A 2

B

If your project does not go all the way around to the start you can “lock” in the first few stitches to make themmatch the end “locked” stitches. HELPFUL HINT

DETAIL VIEW

END

A

END

END

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NOTES:

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