Leather Machine Guide

THE RUN DOWN THREAD

First of all, there are no written rules telling you that you just have to sew with a certain size needle, or a certain size of thread on a particular project. Common sense, and fashion sense, will dictate what you should want to use. And before I go on about thread and needle sizes, it would be good for you to appreciate several little things about thread, needles, and fashion. Thread holds things together and provides a certain “look.” If it’s really light weight thread, it might not be too secure. If its really heavy thread, it might bunch or pucker thematerial and look really bad. Most folks strive for somewhere in themiddle. Thread is sold by weight size. The bigger the number, the bigger (heavier) the thread! Simple, huh? Most common upholstery machines and flatbed machines will comfortably sew with any thread up to and including 138. Some will handle 207 with the correct size needle, and some aren’t happy with it. Some will sew with 207 if you use a lighter weight thread, such as 138, on the bottom. You’ll have to experiment

with your machine in order to know. It takes a heavy stitcher to sew with 277 or 346, period. If you try to use those heavy weight threads in a light weight machine with the wrong size needle, prepare for grief of all sorts! It is also important to know that not all thread is the same! Just because a thread is 69 weight, doesn’t mean it will use the same size needle as a different spool of 69, especially if it’s made by a different manufacturer. Some threads are manufactured to be stiff and wiry, and some are made to be soft and limp. The wiry stuff might not work at all in a size 16 or 18 needle, but might be fine in a size 20. The limp stuff might be perfect in a 16, and hate a 20. You’ll need to experiment!

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