Springfield Leather Supply Guide (updated 5/2023)

LEATHER

Retan: A second finish added over an underlying tannage. Saddle Leather: Vegetable-tanned cattlehide leather for harnesses and saddles, usually of a natural tan shade and rather flexible. Sauvage: A mottled or marbled, tone-on-tone effect created by blending similar colors. Used to add depth and character to leather. Semi-Aniline: Also called aniline-plus or protected aniline. Leather that is aniline dyed and coated with matching pigment and/or topical finishes to even out the color and add protection. Shearling: Natural lamb/sheep pelts with the leather side often dyed and the hair typically cropped (sheared) to some uniform length. Splitting: The process of decreasing the thickness or weight of the leather generally with a large machine. Splits: The bottom layers of the hide that have been split off from the top layer, then pigmented. The result looks like suede, but isn’t as soft. Splits are generally stiffer, but less durable than leather made from the Top Grain layer of the hide. Splits can be made into excellent leathers. Skiving: similar to splitting, skiving is reducing the weight of the leather. Most often, thinning leather by hand is referred to as skiving, while splitting is mostly done with a machine. Skiving is also generally done on a smaller scale - you’ll skive a project but you’ll split a full hide or side. Projects are often skived to shape or even out leather. The two can be considered as interchangeable terms, but each comes with its own connotation. Side (or Side Leather): Half of a full cowhide, cut right up the backbone. In general, sides run about 18 to 22 square feet of total surface area. Snuffed: Leather that has had the grain surface abraded with brushes, emery wheel or sandpaper. It is done to remove defective grain or for sueding the surface of leather. Suede: Split leather that has been buffed and brushed to create a fuzzy, velvet like surface feel. Tooling : Tooling is the art of carving patterns in leather using stamps and other tools. Tooling is typically done on vegetable tanned leather and can take a lot of practice. Top Coat: A transparent, protective coating applied to the leather surface. May also impart luster to the surface. Top Grain: Leather whose top (outermost) layers have been left intact, in contrast to split leather. This leather is more durable than split leather. Two-Tone (tone-on-tone): An effect created by applying layers of similar or contrasting dyes to a piece of leather in order to create a mottled or aged appearance. Antiqued and Sauvaged leathers are examples of two tone leather. Upholstery Leather: Leather (usually chrome tanned) created from a whole hide and intended for use in furniture, automobiles, airplanes, etc. Because of the versatility of this leather, it can be used in many, many applications other than upholstery purposes such as handbags, etc. Often embossed or printed and commonly found in lighter weights. Weight: A term which describes the heaviness or thickness of leather. The weight of leather is measured in ounces per square foot. The standard term for the “thickness” of leather is ounces, but the thickness can be referred to in millimeters as well.

Finish: Any enhancing surface application effect applied to leather after it has been tanned to color, protect and/or mask imperfections. Examples are dyeing, embossing, buffing, antiquing, waxing, glossy clear coating, waterproofing, and so on. Full Grain: Natrual Grain. The outside original skin or hide that has had the hair removed, but has not been corrected or altered beyond hair removal. Full grain leather is the most genuine type of leather, as it retains all of the original texture and markings of the original hide. Glazed Leather: Aniline-dyed leather in which the surface has been polished to a high luster by passing through glass or steel rollers under great pressure. Grain: A word used to describe the natural characteristics of a hide or skin including the natural texture of the leather, such as its pores, wrinkles, markings, and texture. Hand-Tipped: A process used to highlight the pronounced grain and create a beautiful dual tone texture. Usually a darker color is used to tip a ligh ter color leather. Leather: A generic term used for all kinds of tanned animal hides or skins. Hand: A word that describes the feel (i.e. softness or stiffness) of leather. Mineral Tanned: Leather tanned by mineral substances like the salts of chromium/aluminum/zirconium. Nap: Describes the soft, “fuzzy” effect achieved in leather by buffing or brushing. Napa: Commonly refers to the surface or top grain of any soft leather hide. Nubuck: A leather whose surface or top grain has been lightly buffed and brushed to create a very fine, soft, velvety nap that appears smoother than suede. Nubuck differs from suede in that while suede is created from the flesh (inner) side of a hide, nubuck is created using the grain (outer) side, giving it added strength and durability. Also referred to as Buffed Leather. Oil Tanned: Leather that is tanned using oils to create a very soft, pliable finish. This leather often has a “pull-up.” Patent: Heavily finished or laminated leather to achieve a highly lustrous, shiny appearance. Patina: The aura or luster that develops in a quality piece of leather with age. Pigmented Leather: Leather that is has been coated or finished with a flat or solid pigment coating instead of the usual dye finish. Leather is usually pigmented for consistency of color and texture. Pigment may be used to cover imperfections and natural blemishes, and also for added protection and durability. Sometimes called “painted” leather. Plating: The process of pressing leather under a heated metal plate under high pressure. Often used to mask imperfections, or to create an embossed printed leather. Pull-up: The visual effect achieved when leather that has been treated with oils, waxes, and dyes is creased, pulled, or stretched. Those stretched or creased areas will have a lighter look/color. Considered a mark of high quality. Reconstituted Leather: Material composed of collagen fibers obtained from ground hide pieces that have been constructed into a fibrous mat. Matte Finish: A flat or dull finish. Pigskin: From pigs or hogs, commonly used for linings and suede.

Phone: 1-800-668-8518

springfieldleather.com

11

TM