2019 Catalog

BRAND NEWS........................................................... LEATHER................................................................. LEATHER SHAPES............................................... BELT BLANKS, STRIPS & STRAP...................... KITS, KIT COMPONENTS & STARTER SETS... BOOKS & DVD'S............................................... PATTERNS & TEMPLATES............................... LACING & STITCHING SUPPLIES................... MAN MADE MATERIALS.................................. CRAFT COMPONENTS.................................... JEWELRY MAKING SUPPLIES & BEADS...... LEATHER MACHINERY & ACCESSORIES..... TOOLS............................................................... HARDWARE & FASTENERS............................ BUCKLES & BUCKLE SETS............................ CONCHOS & ADAPTERS................................. LEATHER BONDING, COLOR & CARE........... GENERAL STORE............................................ INDEX & ORDER FORM................................... 109-112 113-121 122-133 134-141 142-145 146-170 171-175 176-208 209-235 236-248 249-256 257-278 279-282 283-296 1-5 6-70 71-81 82-90 91-108

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Springfield Leather Company Mission Statement

Brand News 20 th Anniversary Edition

It is the mission of Springfield Leather Company to create a culture that engenders MUTUAL TRUST, HUMILITY, and RESPECT among all employees and customers. To continuously strive toward individual self- improvement, and to eliminate waste throughout SLC by streamlining our procedures for the benefit of our customers. We work towards enabling our customers’ success by continuously providing superb customer service and support, product expertise, proper materials, and timely delivery of products.

satisfying experience for us, and is extremely beneficial for the customer. 3. Choice of where to do business. This has been a big thing! In the past, there really was not much choice as to where leather workers could get supplies. Now there are many good choices. Of course, I’d rather that everyone bought all their supplies from us,  but I know that that is not possible or even reasonable. Having choices is good for everyone, most of all the customer. A core belief of SLC is that the success of the customer is the most important thing in our business. Because if the customer is not successful, then their suppliers won’t be either! 4. Hermann Oak. Just got our first shipment of Hermann oak double shoulders and double butts the other day! Talk about a change! What a great job they have done!!! Hermann Oak is certainly to be commended for taking the many difficult and challenging changes to their operations in order to provide these fantastic options for us and you. It is truly a pleasure to have been able to work together with a quality company like Hermann Oak in order to bring about these wonderful leathers. I could go on, but I think someone else should probably do that.  I hope that this year will be a good one for you and your families, and if there is anything that I can do, or anyway that I can be of help, please let me know. Please know that Rusty, Lindsey, Chris, Liz, Ed, Tony, Darcie, and I will always do our best for you, and when mistakes are made, we’ll fix them. Period.

I can’t believe its been 20 years! Doesn’t seem possible... Got a phone call from an inmate the other day. He said he’d just gotten out, and that he needed a catalog so that he could keep doing leather work. He told me that he’d been doing business with us for 35 years! Made me feel old!!!  Still seems like it’s not been that long since Becky and I took the plunge and put SLC

on the leather world map. It’s been quite a ride, and I’ve got to say that it’s been fun, interesting, challenging, difficult as all get out, and very rewarding as far as being able to help people goes. The leather world is a far different place than it was in 1999! Here are some of the changes: 1. Social media. Social Media has changed the leather world it in many ways. Some of the ways are certainly for the better, and some have been not so great. It’s given the complainers a large platform to shout from. But on the plus side of that, it makes us try harder to avoid problems.  Social media has made it possible for us to communicate and resolve issues with the aid of pictures. Very helpful when it comes to problem solving! Social Media has made it possible for companies to communicate with their customers in an immediate manner when special purchases, sales, and sales events are happening. Social Media has made it possible for customers to make their needs known to vendors, enabling vendors to adapt product lines to the needs of the customer. 2. Leatherworking equipment Machines. The introduction of Servo Motors and Speed reducers has made it possible for many inexperienced people to own and successfully operate a quality leather sewing machine. This has enabled many to take their crafting business to the next level, and their potential as well as profit. Social Media has played a part in the sales of other types of Leatherworking equipment as well. Now customers can truly make educated choices when it comes to purchasing their first leather sewing machine, or burnisher, or skiver, or even a splitter by having easy access to people that have experience with these types of machines. SLC is proud to say that we’ve been at the forefront of providing leather workers with quality machines by Cobra, lots of practical suggestions, and genuine help in this area. I truly believe that we’ve saved our customer base many thousands of dollars over the years, and reduced customer frustration by huge amounts. Making sure that the customer gets a machine that will truly do what they need it to do is a very

Take care,

It’s that time again! Another year has come and gone. I hope you have stayed as busy as we have been! Man… I’ll tell ya, if this is what it is like to be a gopher in soft dirt... that little fella deserves a medal!!

So, where do we begin? 20 years!! It has been 20 years that you have let us do our best to provide you quality leather supplies at an affordable price. There are and will always be challenges, but I want to assure you that everything we do here it is intended to make us better at serving you. Sometimes you have got to go through hard times to get

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to a better place, and that has been and will continue to be our goal. The leather supply world is forever changing, hide prices are as low as they have been in a long time meaning there is a ton of pressure on tanneries to do everything they can to generate sales. Which is why every day we are contacted by tanneries wanting to sell us leather. Chinese consumption fluctuation, Environmental cleanup and tariff wars have had some impact on the market. Their environmental cleanup seems to be having as much impact as anything, and the changing laws and tightening of regulations has put a number small tanneries and foundries out of business. The closing of the small foundries has impacted small sewing machine factories. You will notice in this catalog we no longer offer Sailrite sewing machines. This is because they told us that they cannot get enough parts to build their own machines! Hopefully this will change…. LOTS of metal related products are really feeling the pinch. On a positive note, Kevin and I found our way out to Massachusetts to see an old friend/vendor that after 40 plus years was finally shutting his doors and retiring.... That part of the trip got us TONS of machine and hand sewing thread that will be a steal for you. The second half of the trip was equally as productive. We visited a company that produces metal products from rivets to buckles to conchos and on and on... This was a very good visit because it really helped us to see all of the different things we can develop with you in mind! Such as custom embossed snap caps, and the ability to have your own logo on the snaps that you use in quantity. On a side note.... Kevin and I travel together from time to time... and for some reason he lets me drive the rental cars!!!! The phrase “drive it like you stole it” may hit home harder for some than others... but that’s why they offer extra insurance.... HA! But speeding tickets don’t seem to be my problem.... It’s parking tickets!!! Last year we went to New York City... I drove around for a while.... found a spot to park and I did... The sign said “No Standing” well I wasn’t going to stand there.... I parked there.... That was $400 bucks and 8 city blocks of Steppin’ and Fetchin’ to get to the police station before they closed! And we had to wait to get the dumb boot off the tire!!! Well Massachusetts didn’t treat me any better.... Parked the car on the street... no signs no parking meters... we are safe, right!? Wrong! In the fine state of Massachusetts, they apparently put the parking meters all on one side of the street and the dumb things look like an ATM... and I guess in a way for us Southern Missouri boys…. it was an ATM!!!! Well trust me... I could go on for quite a while to you telling on myself.... but I really have more important things to do….  We wish you and your families all the best for this year and would like to again say “Thanks”. If you

have problems or concerns, or possible good ideas, I’d love to hear them!

Sincerely,

Pres. SLC

Wow. It’s hard for me to believe that it’s been 20 years since Springfield Leather Company made its debut in the leather world! Even though it was a very long time ago, when Kevin and I were both young (well, when I was young anyway  ), I can still remember

Brand News 20 th Anniversary Edition

Kevin getting that phone call from Tandy, telling him that the company was closing its stores and filing for bankruptcy… For those of us that were working for Tandy at the time, it was no surprise that they were open to Kevin’s offer to buy the store. I mean, he had the biggest Tandy staff at the time, there were probably 6 of us at least, which was practically unheard of… plus, he was running the most successful store in the country, and he was even finding his own vendors and creating his own special offers, completely separate from Tandy! In my mind, there really wasn’t anything for Kevin and his lovely wife, Becky, to really consider… I mean, Kevin was a natural… like he was born to do this, and he couldn’t have had a better partner in an adventure such as this than Becky (the kindest, most good-hearted person I’ve ever met in my life… she’s smart, too  ). Starting out, we did have retail customers come in to the tiny, single unit store front in our happy little strip mall, and since we bought the Tandy phone number along with the store and inventory, we continued to get some phone calls from customers looking to place mail orders for Tandy. But honestly, our real bread and butter came from the inmate customer base that Kevin had grown for Tandy over the years. Even while he was working for Tandy, Kevin was creating long-lasting relationships with different vendors, this continued after he launched Springfield Leather, and continues to this day. Kevin has a gift for thinking outside the box and realized early on that inmates could be incredibly imaginative! He also knew that money could be difficult to come by, especially for inmates. This led to some pretty interesting purchases and offers… which also continues to this day! Some of you old-timers might remember the one-page flyers with a simple list of Kevin’s

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All pricing is subject to change without notice! Not responsible for pictorial or typographical errors.

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specials… Now we’ve got sales flyers with actual color pictures of the products, and our inmate flyer “The Profit Maker” is the best it’s ever been (if I do say so myself  ). Some of you may even remember our very first catalog … the one where Ed created a hand drawn cover and Kevin typed up our products on 10 pages of paper (back and front) for a grand total of 20 pages…the only color on that bad boy was the beige cover, and that’s only because the card stock it was printed on was beige! Now we produce a 280 to 300-page, full color catalog every year, showcasing our products!  Over the years, our inmate customer base continued to grow…which allowed us to continue to grow. Our inmate business made it possible for Springfield Leather to explore new horizons. From hiring more and more employees, to accumulating some space then immediately filling it up with stuff, to trying to figure out how to manage an ever-growing business like ours, and incorporating core values and good leaders and management and ultimately, literally branding ourselves and setting a standard in the world of leathercraft businesses, so much so that every major player in this industry has taken notice! We eventually branched out into modern-day times with a website, e-commerce platforms, and a pretty major social media presence... We even own half of our happy little strip mall now! We have a huge production shop, a research and development department, we do private label manufacturing, we create many of our own products and we have many products made exclusively for us. We have the buying power we never dreamed possible, and of course we’ve fostered even more relationships with even more vendors. Kevin’s role at Springfield Leather Company has changed from Owner/President to Owner/Consultant and he named Rusty Darnell (who has learned everything there is to know about this business in the eleven years he’s been with us) as President of SLC and with Lindsey Darnell (formerly Hopkins, who literally grew up in this business) handling all the finances of the operation, Springfield Leather is not only a power-house, but a true second-generation company! What an accomplishment! Now here we are, 20 years later… and so much has changed, but one thing hasn’t…and that’s our dedication to setting the bar for customer service, quality products, and engendering a culture of respect that we not only extend to all of our customers and suppliers, but also to each other.  Does it sound like I’m bragging? Good, because I am. We do very well thanks to our strong leadership and management, that goes without saying, but if it wasn’t for you ; our customers, especially our inmate customers, none of this would have been possible. And that’s

something to brag about! You folks are the ones who make us want to strive to be the best in all we do! Thank you for all you have done and continue to do for us! 

Brand News 20 th Anniversary Edition

SLC New Catalog Items: This year we have decided to make it a little easier to locate the NEW items to the catalog. We tried to get them all marked, but you know how it is...some always manage to slip in without getting noted! Just look for the NEW image!

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TANDY LEATHER FACTORY MERCHANDISE: We’re willing to supply you with Tandy merchandise for as long as we possibly can! Pricing for TLF Merchandise will be as follows: Our Wholesale Pricing will be equal to TLF Elite Pricing, and our Retail Pricing will be equal to TLF Gold Pricing. This pricing structure is ONLY for TLF Merchandise that we have to go and We provide their catalog at a cost of $10.00, which is what they charge us. They send us a Catalog for 10 bucks, and I’ll happily send you one for the same, but they no longer furnish a paper Price List with the Catalogs, and they refuse to do so! Go figure!!! In their defense, their problem is the constant change in metal prices... the fluctuating prices of Gold, Silver and Copper are causing great difficulties for these folks! They have put a Price List on their website and they’ve just told us to download it and print it if we need a current one. But they warned us that it would be obsolete within 24 hours. Our problem is that the Price List is 114 pages! So if we print you one, we gotta charge $4.00 for it. And on top of that... there’s no guarantee that the prices will be accurate!!! OSBORNE TOOLS: As always, these folks are continually affected by rising metal costs! We stock the vast majority, but not quite all of their merchandise; if you need something you don’t see listed, let us know and we’ll get it for you. The tremendous increase in the number of people wanting their tools is keeping their delivery time to about 3 weeks. ORDERING INFORMATION: If you’re ordering from a correctional institution, please try to include all the dashes and zeroes when you’re writing down the stock numbers. It’s also very helpful when you can write out the product, size, color, the flyer/catalog you’re ordering from , and if at all possible, what you plan to make. The more information you can give us, the better! Information like this is very valuable and helpful to us, especially when we have to make decisions regarding your orders IF YOU ARE AN INMATE CUSTOMER: IT IS YOUR PERSONAL RESPONSIBILITY TO KNOW THE RULES OF YOUR FACILITY!!! Please be aware of the rules pertaining to your institution. We try very, very hard to keep track of all the different rules for over 300 prisons. And although we try our very best to do our part to abide by all of the Rules and Guidelines of every Correctional Institution we deal with, it is up to you to be aware of the rules of your particular facility!!! We will never intentionally ship flammable products to you if we know that your state or your institution doesn’t permit pick up for you. NOT on SLC Merchandise. OHIO TRAVEL BAG PRICING:

them. Needless to say, it’s a challenge, and slip ups can happen… If you order dyes, we expect you to know whether or not they are allowed at your facility. Again, please check the rules of your facility and if you know you can’t have something... DON’T ORDER IT! PRICING INFORMATION FOR FEDERAL INSTITUTIONS: Springfield Leather Company is a Nationwide Leather Craft and Jewelry Craft Supplier for Correctional Institutions, Manufacturers, Small Businesses, and individuals. We offer retail pricing and also wholesale pricing so as to fit the needs of our customers. State and Federal Correctional Facilities qualify for wholesale pricing if they so desire. On the other hand, retail pricing is available to any State and Federal facilities that feel that retail pricing would better serve their pricing needs. We’re currently serving a great many of the Federal Correctional institutions in this country and it’s our policy to cooperate with all facilities in any way that we can, in order to make shopping with Springfield Leather Company as easy, convenient, and affordable as possible. Please know that we appreciate your business! PASS THROUGH PURCHASES: ALL PASS THROUGH PURCHASES MUST HAVE PRIOR CRAFT SHOP SUPERVISOR APPROVAL... This means it must be listed on your order form as a line item. If it’s listed on an order form and sent to us from your facility, then we assume that this has been approved through your Craft Shop Supervisor, and is ok for us to send. If you send us a letter, or call, or have a friend or family member call asking us to do a Pass Through Purchase, or add that item to your current order, we will tell you that the item must have Craft Shop Supervisor approval and must be submitted on an order form. However, if your Craft Shop Supervisor is willing to call or email us and verify that the Pass Through Purchase is approved, then we can send it without the approved order form. There is a 35% charge on all pass through purchases. LEATHER STAMPING TOOLS: ALL THE LEATHER STAMPING TOOLS THAT WE CARRY ARE GUARANTEED FOR LIFE! So if one breaks; we’ll happily replace it for you.  We DO NOT guarantee any sort of lacing chisels for life! That would be like guaranteeing a light bulb for life!

Brand News 20 th Anniversary Edition

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All pricing is subject to change without notice! Not responsible for pictorial or typographical errors.

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Brand News 20 th Anniversary Edition

SLC RETURN POLICY: Returns are simply unavoidable in this business. If you do feel that it’s necessary to return something, PLEASE check with us FIRST!!! If you get a defective stamping tool, I probably don’t want you to return it. If you get a bad bottle of whatever, I definitely do not want it back! (Unless there are special circumstances.) If you get leather that you can’t live with (heaven forbid), that could be different. Please touch base with us, if at all possible. It just doesn’t make sense to accumulate shipping charges and difficulties if we don’t have to. Most situations are easily handled by phone, letter, or email. I’d like to work together as well as possible to minimize expenses for both ends in the event of returns. You may not be aware, but we get from 10–12 inmate orders returned unopened every week, simply because someone lost Craft Shop privileges, or was transferred, or some such thing. It’s time consuming, and a great expense, but not one that anyone can really do anything about. So we just live with it. We can have UPS pick something up, or we can send a shipping label to you. The shipping label is the best option for us, as a rule. Our main concern with returns is twofold: #1: To take care of you, and resolve the problem in a way that makes you happy.  #2: Lose the least amount of money possible for each of us.  And just so you know, we always try to give the benefit of the doubt to our customers.  U.S. SHIPPING POLICIES: For our Inmate Customers: State Facilities: $10.00 flat rate fee for orders under $100.00. For orders over $100.00, we will get you the best rate we can! Federal Facilities: -$10.00 flat rate fee for orders under $100.00 -$20.00 for orders between $100.00 and $200.00 -$25.00 for orders over $200.00 For our Civilian Customers: Shipping prices will be calculated once you place your order, determined by your preferred method of shipping. Rush Order service: $8.00 charge - This service will ensure that your order is processed and shipped within 24 hours of receiving it, on all IN STOCK items. (Items that must be produced may take longer). What is overnight shipping? That means that you paid the carrier to get it to you overnight. Once we hand it to them, they get it to you overnight. It does not ensure that we will, or can, get it to the carrier, hence the RUSH ORDER service. What does FLAT RATE mean ? It simply means we can ship it by any carrier that we choose for the flat rate amount. If you want it shipped by a specific carrier, then the shipping will be actual charges.

Is there anything that is not covered by the flat rate? Yes, any machine and/or pallet that must be shipped by freight does not ship for free. It will incur a flat rate of $150 to ship for our commercial customers. Residential customers will incur rates of $250 or more based on location. Sailrite sewing machines ship for $40 flat rate. OVERSEAS SHIPPING PRICES: You can now place international/overseas orders online, as well as by email and mail! International orders can be shipped via UPS, USPS, and DHL. Shipping prices will be calculated once you place your order, determined by your location and preferred (or available) method of shipping. HERE ARE JUST SOME OF THE THINGS THAT WE CAN DO FOR YOU: -Custom Laser Engraving -We can get clicker dies made for you! -Custom Die Cutting. -Ask Kevin Program. -We have access to all sorts of finished leather goods at wholesale/retail pricing. -We can have “maker stamps” custom made for you. -We have the ability to custom manufacture. -We have access to many industrial sewing machines. -We have a huge inventory of upholstery hides and sides, and access to just about any upholstery leather on the planet! -We have access to all sorts of specialty printed leather. -We supply and distribute merchandise for a wide variety of companies. -We know where to find a great many items that are difficult to locate in the leather world. -We have extremely knowledgeable staff that are always here to help you, no matter the circumstances. -For our inmate customers, you get wholesale pricing for life; even after you get out!!! No “Club Fees.” -For our inmate customers, we offer a *Pass Through Purchase Program. So if there’s something you need from Wal-Mart, CVS, a Grocery Store, etc. we might be able to help you out! We can and will get what you need for a 35% mark-up. (*Pass Through Purchases are dependent on Craft Shop Supervisor Approval.) -For our inmate customers, we can actually customize our products and services to fit the needs of your particular facility. -Do you need special packaging? We can do that. Do you need special quantities? We can do that. Do you have spending or per line item price restrictions? We can work with you. Do you need customized Kits? We can do that, too. We can do whatever it takes to make things as easy as possible to accommodate your needs and the needs of your facilities. All you have to do is let us know what you need!

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A Brief Introduction to Leather Leather can be tough to navigate. That’s why we’ve compiled some of the best bits of knowledge we could come up with and put them in this section. We’ll teach you some leather terms, help you with cuts and weight and will give you some of his best know-how when it comes to buying leath- er. Flip to page [[INSERT PAGE]] to start shopping. If you have more questions, please visit our website’s FAQ page or our blog, Kevin’s Storytime at SpringfieldLeather.tk. Tanning and Finishes Leather is produced by using animal skins in a process called tanning. Leather tanning varies in method and results in a skin that comes in various finishes. There are a few types of tanning, but we’ll discuss the two most prominently practiced: vegetable tanning and chrome tanning. Vegetable Tanning A method of hide tanning which utilizes materials from organic materials such as bark tannins. Vegetable tanned leather takes longer to produce and has greater body and firmness than chrome tanned leather. A lot of vegetable tanned leather is able to be tooled - but not all. Look for natural veg tan or look for terms like “tooling leather” if you want to carve your leather. Chrome Tanning A method of tanning leather in which chromium salts are used. Chrome Tanned leathers are often softer, more mellow and pliable than vegetable tanned leathers. This method of tanning is faster than vegetable tanning. Grading Vegetable tanned leather is often left in its natural state and therefore can’t rely on coloring, decoration or other alterations that can hide skin imperfections. So, tanneries grade their leather to let customers know which leather has the fewest cosmitic issues in the tannery at the time. To read a more comprehensive breakdown, visit the blog: bit.ly/leathergrade The bottom line is that the grader is primarily concerned with cosmetic issues. The grader obviously cannot see into the leather. He also is not going to wet a spot on the side, make a few cuts with a swivel knife, then bevel a little to see how it cuts or tools. Those things are not able to be detected by the tanner, or by us.

Leather 20 th Anniversary Edition

Some tanners use A, B, C, D, 1, 2, 3, 4 to denote grades. At SLC, we use a grading system that places “A” at the top of the quality scale as letter grading generally matches up to tannery grading systems like Hermann Oak. Lower grade sides will have more of those cosmetic issues we mentioned and higher grades will have less, but the leather itself is all the same quality. The tanner will get maybe 5-10 “A” grade hides out of 100. Maybe 20 or so “B” grades. The rest will be “C”s, and “D”s.

Something that most crafters are not aware of, is that to a tanner, an “A” grade side is simply the best grade of leather that is in the tannery at the moment. That’s why you can still find an occasional defect on an “A” grade side. So, if you order 50 sides of “A” grade from a tanner, you’ll get the best 50 that he has, even though some could have been “B”s in another run.

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All pricing is subject to change without notice! Not responsible for pictorial or typographical errors.

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Buying by the Square Foot We are one of the few companies that offer this awesome service because we want to help you get the most bang for your buck and not be afraid to try new things! First, you need to know how to calculate a square foot. Multiply the length of your leather by the width of your leather and, you’ve got your square foot- age. So, if your leather is 4 feet long and 3 feet wide, you’ve got 12 square feet of leather. You’ll often see sites with pre-cuts that are 12in x 12in - that’s one square foot! Compare that price to the leather you’re considering and you might save yourself some dough. So, if buying by the square foot is cheaper than a pre-cut, why do people sell pre-cuts? That’s because pre-cuts give you a piece of leather in a specific shape and set of dimensions. Buying by the square foot gives you the same amount of leather is no guarantee about the shape or dimensions. Pre-cuts will also have little to no flaws, while buying by the square foot gives you a more organic experience. Generally speaking, if

Leather 20 th Anniversary Edition

there is a flawed piece of the leather, we’ll avoid it when cutting. Now that you know what a square foot is, you can easily calculate how much mate- rial you’ll need for your project. Simply adjust the “quantity” to match the number of square feet you need and you’re set!

A square foot can look very different! You can cut a square foot in a circle, or a sqaure, or a rectangle or from the natural edge of a of the leather. The graphic above shows precuts in vari- ous sizes. Notice that the 12” round is one square foot, just like the 12x12 square. But these are pre-cuts

If you are buying by the square foot, we won’t cut it in a circle or a square (most likely). Instead, we start at one end of the side and cut the amount you request. So, if you ask for 3 sq. ft., you might get a piece that looks like this.

Pro tip : Make sure you buy at least 20% more leather than your project calls for. And don’t forget, buying by the square foot is not the same as buying a pre-cut. You won’t normally get a square or rectangular piece.

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LEATHER... IT'S WHAT WE DO BEST! Leather can be sold in several different ways; by the square foot, by the piece, by the side, hide, skin, and even by the pound. We want to make it easy for you. You can buy most (not quite all) of our leathers that are sold by the square foot, in pretty much any size you want. This allows you to just buy pretty much what you need instead of being forced to buy a lot of extra leather that might take months or even years to use, and it leaves you with more money to spend on rivets, glue, and other things that you really need. J

Leather 20 th Anniversary Edition E

G H

A

B

Neck = G or H Side = G+A+C+E or B+D+F+H Belly = E or F Single Shoulder = A+G or B+H Trimmed Double Shoulder = A + B Untrimmed Double Shoulder = A + B + G + H Back = C+A+G or B+D+H Single Bend = C or D Double Bend/Double Butt = C+D Culatta = E + C or D + F Full Hide = All of the above parts Know Your Hide!

F

C

D

Leather Conversion Chart

Leather Thickness The measurement of the thickness of leather is

Weight

Thickness

measured in several formats: Ounces (1 ounce = 1/64 inch) Millimeters (1 mm = 0.03937 inch) Irons (1 iron = 1/48 inch):

Ounces

Inches Decimal (in)

Millimeters Irons

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

1/64 1/32 3/64 1/16 5/64 3/32 7/64

0.016 0.031 0.047 0.063 0.078 0.094 0.109 0.125 0.141 0.156 0.172

0.4 0.8 1.2 1.6 2.4 2.8 3.2 3.6 2

0.75

1.5

The Leather Conversion Chart shown here should give you a pretty good idea of general leather thicknesses. How Do I Choose The Weight of Leather I Need? Deciding what weight of leather you need really depends on the project! Leather is extremely versatile and there are no set rules...especially when it comes to personal preferences. What one person uses to make a wallet or a belt, another person might use for a handbag. Leather is as individual and unique as the person working with it. That being said, this is a very general list of common uses for some popular weights of veg. tanned leather. OUNCE USES 2-3 oz. molding, toolable linings, embossing 3-4 oz. embossing, lightweight billfold backs, & clutches 4-5 oz. billfold backs, organizers, clutches 5-6 oz. small cases, notebook covers 6-7 oz. carved handbags, cases, journal covers 7-8 oz. narrow belts, knife sheaths and small holsters 8-9 oz. belts, holsters, saddle bags 9-10 oz. heavy holsters, belts over 1-1/2” wide

2.25

3

3.75

4.5

5.25

1/8

6

9/64 5/32

6.75

10 11

4

7.5

11/64

4.4

8.25

12

3/16

0.188

4.8

9

13

13/64

0.203

5.2

9.75

14

7/32

0.219

5.6

10.5

15

15/64

0.234

6

11.25

16

1/4

0.250

6.4

12

8

All pricing is subject to change without notice! Not responsible for pictorial or typographical errors.

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Altered Leather: Leather with its original surface of the skin or hide removed to get rid of imperfections in the original grain surface. A new grain can be embossed into the leather. Aniline: Leather that is colored all the way through with a transparent dye. The effect is applied by immersing the leather in a dye bath. Because the finish is transparent and shows the natural markings of the leather, so only the best quality hides can be used. Aniline Finish: Drum-dyed leather finished to have a soft feel, usually coated with protein, resin, lacquer or waxes. Antiqued: Leather that is dyed with one color over another (usually darker over lighter) so as to create rich highlights and an artificial aged appearance. Also called distressed leather. Brush Colored: The application of dyestuff to leather being laid on a table, with a brush. Some also call this ‘hand tipping’. Buffed Leather: Leather from which the top surface has been removed by abrasion. Also referred to as snuffed, grain sueded, suede or nubuc. Calf Hide: Leather taken from an immature bovine. Calf hides are broken down further based on size of the hide: Cordovan: Leather made from the tight, firm shell portion of horse butts that has fine pores and a characteristic finish. Learn more about shell cordovan on our website: bit.ly/shellcordovan Corrected Grain: Leather that has been buffed to remove blemishes, then covered with a new, artificial grain created using pigments and other finishes. Cowhide: OK, this may seem obvious, but cowhide is the hide of a cow. Rocket science. Crust: Leather that has been tanned but not finished. Crust leathers are often colored/dyed, but no finishing oils or treatments have been added. Drawn Grain: Shrunken, shriveled or wrinkled grain surface of leather. Distressed: Leather that has been artifically treated to create signs of aging, sometimes achieved by buffing the surface of the leather for a weathered or worn look. Common leather markings include: shading variations, healed scratches, neck wrinkles, insect bites, barbed wire marks, stretch marks, vein marks and brands. Another term for Antiqued Leather. Drum Dying: The process of coloring leather by tumbling it in a rotating drum immersed in dye. A very effective method allowing maximum dye penetration.

Leather 20 th Anniversary Edition

Embossed Leather: Leather that has been stamped, plated or heat pressed with a design or artificial texture under very high pressure, most times involving heat. Fat Wrinkle: Wrinkles in the grain of leather caused by fat deposits in the animal. Yet another reason to get your cows into a gym. Finish: Any enhancing surface application effect applied to leather after it has been tanned to color, protect and/or mask imperfections. Examples are dyeing, embossing, buffing, antiquing, waxing, glossy clear coating, waterproofing, and so on.

Full Grain: Natrual Grain. The outside original skin or hide that has had the hair removed, but has not been corrected or altered beyond hair removal. Full grain leather is the most genuine type of leather, as it retains all of the original texture and markings of the original hide.

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Phone: 417-881-0223 or 1-800-668-8518 Fax: 1-417-881-4953 Email: feedback@springfieldleather.com

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Glazed Leather: Aniline-dyed leather in which the surface has been polished to a high luster by passing through glass or steel rollers under great pressure. Grain: A word used to describe the natural characteristics of a hide or skin including the natural texture of the leather, such as its pores, wrinkles, markings, and texture. Hand: A word that describes the feel (i.e. softness or stiffness) of leather. Hand-Tipped: A process used to highlight the pronounced grain and create a beautiful dual tone texture. Usually a darker color is used to tip a lighter color leather. Kip: Calf hide that is less than 14.75 square feet Leather: A generic term used for all kinds of tanned animal hides or skins. Matte Finish: A flat or dull finish. Mineral Tanned: Leather tanned by mineral substances like the salts of chromium/aluminum/zirconium. Nubuc: A leather whose surface or top grain has been lightly buffed and brushed to create a very fine, soft, velvety nap that appears smoother than suede. Nubuc differs from suede in that while suede is created from the flesh (inner) side of a hide, nubuc is created using the grain (outer) side, giving it added strength and durability. Also referred to as Buffed Leather. Oil Tanned: Leather that is tanned using oils to create a very soft, pliable finish. This leather often has a “pull-up.” Patent: Heavily finished or laminated leather to achieve a highly lustrous, shiny appearance. Patina: The aura or luster that develops in a quality piece of leather with age. Pigskin: From pigs or hogs, commonly used for linings and suede. Pigmented Leather: Leather that is has been coated or finished with a flat or solid pigment coating instead of the usual dye finish. Leather is usually pigmented for consistency of color and texture. Pigment may be used to cover imperfections and natural blemishes, and also for added protection and durability. Sometimes called “painted” leather. Plating: The process of pressing leather under a heated metal plate under high pressure. Often used to mask imperfections, or to create an embossed printed leather. Nap: Describes the soft, “fuzzy” effect achieved in leather by buffing or brushing. Napa: Commonly refers to the surface or top grain of any soft leather hide.

10 Leather 20 th Anniversary Edition

Pull-up: The visual effect achieved when leather that has been treated with oils, waxes, and dyes is creased, pulled, or stretched. Those stretched or creased areas will have a lighter look/color. Considered a mark of high quality. Reconstituted Leather: Material composed of collagen fibers obtained from ground hide pieces that have been constructed into a fibrous mat. Retan: A second finish added over an underlying tannage. Saddle Leather: Vegetable-tanned cattlehide leather for harnesses and saddles, usually of a natural tan shade and rather flexible. Sauvage: A mottled or marbled, tone-on-tone effect created by blending similar colors. Used to add depth and character to leather.

All pricing is subject to change without notice! Not responsible for pictorial or typographical errors.

springfieldleather.com

Leather 20 th Anniversary Edition

Semi-Aniline: Also called aniline-plus or protected aniline. Leather that is aniline dyed and coated with matching pigment and/or topical finishes to even out the color and add protection. Shearling: Natural lamb/sheep pelts with the leather side often dyed and the hair typically cropped (sheared) to some uniform length. Splitting: The process of decreasing the thickness or weight of the leather generally with a large machine.

Skiving: similar to splitting, skiving is reducing the weight of the leather. Most often, thinning leather by hand is referred to as skiving, while splitting is mostly done with a machine. Skiving is also generally done on a smaller scale - you’ll skive a project but you’ll split a full hide or side. Projects are often skived to shape or even out leather. The two can be considered as interchangeable terms, but each comes with its own connotation. Side (or Side Leather): Half of a full cowhide, cut right up the backbone. In general, sides run about 18 to 22 square feet of total surface area. Snuffed: Leather hat has had the grain surface abraded

with brushes, emery wheel or sandpaper. It is done to remove defective grain or for sueding the surface of leather. Splits: The bottom layers of the hide that have been split off from the top layer, then pigmented. The result looks like suede, but isn’t as soft. Splits are generally stiffer, but less durable than leather made from the Top Grain layer of the hide. Splits can be made into excellent leathers. Suede: Split leather that has been buffed and brushed to create a fuzzy, velvet like surface feel. Tooling : Tooling is the art of carving patterns in leather using stamps and other tools. Tooling is typically done on vegetable tanned leather and can take a lot of practice Top Coat: A transparent, protective coating applied to the leather surface. May also impart luster to the surface. Top Grain: Leather whose top (outermost) layers have been left intact, in contrast to split leather. This leather is more durable than split leather. Two-Tone (tone-on-tone): An effect created by applying layers of similar or contrasting dyes to a piece of leather in order to create a mottled or aged appearance. Antiqued and Sauvaged leathers are examples of two-tone leather. Upholstery Leather: Leather (usually chrome tanned) created from a whole hide and intended for use in furniture, automobiles, airplanes, etc. Because of the versatility of this leather, it can be used in many, many applications other than upholstery purposes such as handbags, etc. Often embossed or printed and commonly found in lighter weights.

Weight: A term which describes the heaviness or thickness of leather. The weight of leather is measured in ounces per square foot.The standard term for the “thickness” of leather is ounces, but the thickness can be referred to in millimeters as well.

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Phone: 417-881-0223 or 1-800-668-8518 Fax: 1-417-881-4953 Email: feedback@springfieldleather.com

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All pricing is subject to change without notice! Not responsible for pictorial or typographical errors. Leather 20 th Anniversary Edition Hermann Oak Strap & Tooling Leather Since 1861, Hermann Oak has been tanning top-grain leather right here in Missouri. St. Louis-based, the company prides itself on its slow and careful tanning process. A process that produces the finest top-grain stamping and tooling leather in the world. This tanning process referred to as Traditional Tanning, is a labor-intensive method that produces a leather that is dense, sturdy, and holds it shape when molding. And while their leather comes in many different grades, the quality is all about the tanning process. Hermann Oak’s use of the pressed-yard traditional tanning method makes the quality of all its pieces exactly the same. The grading is based solely on surface imperfections like scars or brands. At Springfield Leather, we sell more lower grade Hermann Oak leather than any other grade because many parts of a D Grade side are actually A Grade. We proudly offer Hermann Oak Leather in almost every option under the sun, making it easy for anyone who wants to try it out! Go ahead, try some for yourself, and see why the leather world is in love with Hermann Oak! Sides avg. 22–26 sf. Hermann Oak Sides We now offer several different purchasing options for our Hermann Oak Craftsman and B Grade Tooling Sides! In addition to buying by the square foot, now you have the option to save a few bucks and buy the whole side ... or you have the option to save a few more bucks, and buy a whole roll (total of 5 sides). Great options for the small manufacturer and reseller! HERMANN OAK B GRADE LEATHER PURCHASING OPTIONS WEIGHT BY THE SQUARE FOOT BY THE SIDE BY THE ROLL (5 SIDES) Retail: $10.99/sf. Wholesale: $9.99/sf. $225.00/ea. $1075.00/Roll ORDER # ORDER # ORDER # 2–3 oz. 49-72023 49-72023-S 49-72023-R 3–4 oz. 49-72034 49-72034-S 49-72034-R 4–5 oz. 49-72045 49-72045-S 49-72045-R 5–6 oz. 49-72056 49-72056-S 49-72056-R 6–7 oz. 49-72067 49-72067-S 49-72067-R 7–8 oz. 49-72078 49-72078-S 49-72078-R 8–9 oz. 49-72089 49-72089-S 49-72089-R 9–10 oz. 49-72010 49-72010-S 49-72010-R 10–11 oz. 49-72011 49-72011-S 49-72011-R HERMANN OAK CRAFTSMAN GRADE LEATHER PURCHASING OPTIONS WEIGHT BY THE SQUARE FOOT BY THE SIDE BY THE ROLL (5 SIDES) Retail: $8.59/sf. Wholesale: $7.89/sf. $180.00/ea. $837.50/Roll ORDER # ORDER # ORDER # 2–3 oz. 49-72223 49-72223-S 49-72223-R 3–4 oz. 49-72234 49-72234-S 49-72234-R 4–5 oz. 49-72245 49-72245-S 49-72245-R 5–6 oz. 49-72256 49-72256-S 49-72256-R 6–7 oz. 49-72267 49-72267-S 49-72267-R 7–8 oz. 49-72278 49-72278-S 49-72278-R 8–9 oz. 49-72289 49-72289-S 49-72289-R 9–10 oz. 49-72210 49-72210-S 49-72210-R 10–11 oz. 49-72211 49-72211-S 49-72211-R We are happy to cut our “SIDE” listing in any square footage you need. Please, when purchasing our “BACK”, “CULATTA”, or “SHOULDER” listings, order between the averages listed.

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Leather 20 th Anniversary Edition

Hermann Oak Utility Sides Same great tannage of the quality Hermann Oak, just not up to the usual high cosmetic standards. This leather might have some deep wrinkles, range marks, spots or discolorations, even grain damage and unleveled surface, but tooling and embossing will correct most of these flaws! This is a great opportunity to get high quality Hermann Oak leather for a spectacular value! Great for utility holsters. (24 sf. avg., 8–11 oz.) Sold by the side! Price: $160.00 ORDER # 49-970

Hermann Oak Backs

CRAFTSMAN GRADE BACKS Ret: $10.79/sf. Whsl: $9.59/sf. WEIGHT ORDER # 2–3 oz. 49-123 3–4 oz. 49-134 4–5 oz. 49-145 5–6 oz. 49-156 6–7 oz. 49-167 7–8 oz. 49-178 8–9 oz. 49-189 9–10 oz. 49-1910 10–11 oz. 49-1011

B GRADE BACKS Ret: $12.99/sf. Whsl: $11.99/sf. WEIGHT ORDER # 2–3 oz. 49-7700 3–4 oz. 49-7701 4–5 oz. 49-7702 5–6 oz. 49-7703 6–7 oz. 49-7704 7–8 oz. 49-7705 8–9 oz. 49-7706 9–10 oz. 49-7707 10–11 oz. 49-7708

Backs avg. 17–20 sf.

Hermann Oak Culattas

CRAFTSMAN GRADE CULATTAS Ret: $9.29/sf. Whsl: $8.59/sf.. WEIGHT ORDER # 2–3 oz. 49-1300 3–4 oz. 49-1301 4–5 oz. 49-1302 5–6 oz. 49-1303 6–7 oz. 49-1304 7–8 oz. 49-1305 8–9 oz. 49-1306 9–10 oz. 49-1307 10–11 oz. 49-1308

B GRADE CULATTAS Ret: $11.79/sf. Whsl: $10.79/sf. WEIGHT ORDER # 2–3 oz. 49-7717 3–4 oz. 49-7709 4–5 oz. 49-7710 5–6 oz. 49-7711 6–7 oz. 49-7712 7–8 oz. 49-7713 8–9 oz. 49-7714 9–10 oz. 49-7715 10–11 oz. 49-7716

Culattas avg. 16–18 sf.

Hermann Oak Swatch Ring Hermann Oak Veg Tan Sample Swatch Ring, sizes 2-3oz (0.8-1.2mm) to 10-11oz (4-4.4mm) The swatches are roughly 2”x3”, so they’re plenty large enough to get an understanding of the weight and hand of the leather! Keep in mind the swatches are clicked out of the selection of leathers available at the time the rings are assembled, so... there may be a sample or two missing. If you have an up-to-date catalog, and notice a swatch is missing from your ring, just let us know! We’ll be happy to send it to you. Price: $15.00 ORDER # 100-027

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Phone: 417-881-0223 or 1-800-668-8518 Fax: 1-417-881-4953 Email: feedback@springfieldleather.com

springfieldleather.com

Hermann Oak Premium American Single Belt Bends The Single Bend is the premium part of the hide, but unlike imported vegetable tanned leathers, these are cut from Hermann Oak heavy native steers, which means the single bend will be larger, giving you a greater cutting yield. Excellent for belts and straps! Most will cut between 16 & 18 1-1/2” strips from 52" to 60" long. If you have to have the best, quite simply, this is it. Whether you’re making belts, or carving pictures, this

leather will make you look good! (11–13 sf. avg.) Retail: $165.00 ea. Wholesale: $155.00 ea.

WEIGHT ORDER # 2–3 oz. 49-23 3–4 oz. 49-34 4–5 oz. 49-45 5–6 oz. 49-56 6–7 oz. 49-67 7–8 oz. 49-78 8–9 oz. 49-89 9–10 oz. 49-10 10–11 oz. 49-9

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Hermann Oak Single Shoulders These shoulders are generated from our belt production. You're not gonna cut any belts from these, but you're sure gonna get some superior Craftsman Grade leather for those smaller projects like clutches, wallets, checkbook covers, holsters, etc. (5–7 sf. avg.) Retail: $8.29/sf. Wholesale: $7.59/sf. NATURAL VEG. WEIGHT ORDER # 2–3 oz. 49-11 3–4 oz. 49-13 4–5 oz. 49-14 5–6 oz. 49-15 6–7 oz. 49-16 7–8 oz. 49-17 8–9 oz. 49-18 9–10 oz. 49-19 10–11 oz. 49-20 We are happy to cut our “SIDE” listing in any square footage you need. Please, when purchasing our “BACK”, “CULATTA”, or “SHOULDER” listings, order between the averages listed. ORDER # 49-971 Hermann Oak Utility Bends These bends are the same great quality as our premium bends, but with a few cosmetic issues. They might have some deep wrinkles, range marks, spots or discolorations, even grain damage and unleveled surface, but tooling and embossing will correct most of these flaws! Get a premium cut of high quality Hermann Oak leather for a spectacular value! Great for utility holsters. (11–13 sf. avg., 8–11 oz.) Sold by the bend! Price: $110.00

Hermann Oak Tooling Bellies

Large, straight edged bellies from Hermann Oak! Very good for belts and straps. Fine for cutting belts and strips! Granted, they are bellies, but if you line your belts, this would be a nice way to produce some good quality leather belts at a price your customers can afford. Quality is good, and most are quite clean. (4–6 sf. avg.) Subject to Availability! Retail: $28.99 ea. Wholesale: $24.99 ea.

Hermann Oak Utility Bellies These bellies are cut from our Hermann Oak Utility Sides. They are a good size and great quality, just with some cosmetic defects. Great for those projects that you want to show a little rustic style in. Great for creating lined belts! (4–5 sf. avg., approx. 8–11 oz.) Retail: $25.00 ea. Wholesale: $20.00 ea. ORDER # 49-972

NATURAL VEG. WEIGHT ORDER # 2–3 oz. 49-1498 3–4 oz. 49-1499 4–5 oz. 49-1500 5–6 oz. 49-1501 6–7 oz. 49-1502 7–8 oz. 49-1503 8–9 oz. 49-1504 9-10 oz. 49-1505 10–11 oz. 49-1506

All pricing is subject to change without notice! Not responsible for pictorial or typographical errors.